Foundation Pipe and Protrusion Leak Repair Kit – Applied Technologies #leak, #water, #basement, #pipe, #conduit, #water #line, #around, #pipe


Water Pipe and Penetration Leaks Kits

Stop Leaks Around Conduit, Water Supply Lines, Sewer Pipes and Protrusions with Polyurethane Foam

Concrete foundations and basements have several penetrations through the walls. These include water supply lines, sewer pipes, conduit and gas lines. These penetrations can allow a direct path for water to leak through. At the time of installation, water plug is used to seal the water out. Over time the bond to the concrete can deteriorate and water will leak in.

Polyurethane foam injection around the pipe that goes through your concrete basement wall will stop the water leak.

Hydra Stop 300 Finished Foam

The liquid Hydra Stop 300 resin expands 20-30x its initial volume.

Water Leaks Around Conduit, Pipes, Water Lines and Penetrations in Concrete Walls

All penetrations through a concrete foundation can leak water. That is because when the water line, conduit, sewer pipe or other penetration was installed a hole was drilled all the way through the wall. This hole provides a direct path for water to get into your basement.

At the time of installation, “water plug” was most likely used to seal these openings. The water plug is like cement and is placed on the inside and outside of the opening around the pipe. Unfortunately, the water plug cannot get more than 2 inches into the opening. There is a void behind it that collects water. Polyurethane foam can be injected into this voide and completely seal the entire void.

Where to Use the Kit

This kit can be used on leaking penetrations through concrete walls such as;

  • Around leaking water lines
  • Sewer pipes
  • Electrical conduit that goes through the wall
  • All penetrations through a concrete wall

The polyurethane foam bonds to concrete, copper, steel, iron and plastic pipes.

Water Plug Failure Around Pipes and Conduit

At the time of installation, the penetration was sealed with a product commonly called “water plug.” Water plug is a cement like product that is packed into the gap around the pipe. The installer is unable to get the water plug all the way through concrete wall. Eventually water makes its way into the gap and you see the water leaking down the inside of your basement. Water plug fails because it cannot bind tightly to the surrounding concrete or pipe. The bond fails and water begins to enter. Or, the water plug begins to crumble and crack. Injecting polyurethane into the void will stop the leak.

Polyurethane Foam Injection to Stop the Water Leak

A simple repair to stop the water leak can be done by injecting a polyurethane foam into and around the pipe that is leaking. The polyurethane goes in as a liquid and then foams and expands around the pipe. The foam binds tightly to the concrete and the pipe. Once the foam has completely expanded, it will fill the void through the wall all the way through to the outside.

First a small hole is made in the water plug if it is tight to the concrete wall. An injection port is placed inside this hole. This is how the polyurethane will be injected into the void. After placing the port, the entire area is sealed with Poxy Paste. This ensures that the Hydra Stop 300 polyurethane will not leak out. Finally, the Hydra Stop 300 polyurethane is injected. The total time for the repair is one hour.

How to Rough-in a Toilet #basement #plumbing #rough-in


How to Rough-in a Toilet

In this article you will learn the steps and plumbing information required to rough-in a toilet(water closet). Roughing in a toilet is not recommended for the average homeowner and should only be done by a licensed plumber; however, as long as you obtain a permit and have your work inspected, you should end up with a functional installation.

The standard 12″ rough-in measurement for toilets will accommodate 95% of the toilets on the market; however, there are many models available that require specific rough-in measurements. If you have a specific water closet in mind or space constraints that would not allow for a standard toilet, ensure you read the manufacture’s specifications and installation instructions first.

What you will need

Rules for toilet drains and vents

  • *Always check with your local plumbing authority before attempting any project yourself.
  • The toilet flange and all downstream piping must be at least 3″ with no reduction in size.
  • The trap arm of a toilet can only change direction by 225 degrees.
  • A toilet’s drain must be run at 1/4″ per foot minimum grade when horizontal.
  • A toilet cannot be installed upstream of any wet vented fixture.
  • The maximum vertical fall of the drain is 1 meter(39 inches) and the maximum horizontal run is 3 meters before it connects to a vent.
  • All downstream drainage after the connection of a third toilet on the same horizontal pipe must be 4″ diameter or larger.
  • Toilets do not require a trap to be installed as they have an integral trap.
  • If the toilet is going to be “Wet Vented ” the portion of the pipe that is acting as both a drain and a vent must be at least 2″ in size but also depends on the number of fixtures(NPC – Table ) For a standard 4 piece bath a 2″ wet vent will suffice.
  • A vent serving a toilet must be at least 1-1/2″

Planning the drainage and venting

  • A toilet needs to have a 3″ drain, usually made of ABS or PVC and must be connected to an existing drainage stack. building drain or branch of at least 3″ in size. Depending on the age of your home, the existing drainage may be made of cast iron or copper pipe. which can be easily adapted to plastic pipe through the use of specialty fittings called “Fernco’s”(brand name), which is a rubber fitting with hose clamps.
  • Plan where your fixtures are going to be located. The flange your toilet will mount onto needs to be 12 inches out from the wall(for a standard toilet) to the center of the flange and have at least 15 inches of clearance on the sides.

Toilet drainage rough-in steps

  1. Cut a hole in the subfloor just large enough for the bottom part of the toilet flange to sit. The flange rim will be fastened to the finished floor later. The center of the toilet flange should be 12″ from the finished wall (add a 1/2″ for drywall if measuring from the framing).
  2. If your installing the drainage underground, excavate the trench and have a supply of clean backfill ready (sand or gravel) to grade and cover the pipe.
  3. Cut in to an existing drainage branch or stack of at least 3″ in size and install a sanitary tee for vertical stacks or a wye on horizontal drains. Don’t forget to account for the grade of the toilet’s drain when measuring where to cut in. Ensure all plumbing fixtures connected to this drain are not used, or it could get messy. If any drain will be left open for a length of time you should plug it with rags or plastic to keep out the sewer gasses.
  4. Measure and cut pipe to required lengths and attach any fittings necessary without using any glue(dry fit). When dry fitting pipe and fittings, the pipe may not fully seat into the fitting, so don’t forget to account for this(this is called the fitting allowance).
  5. When you are satisfied that the pipe and fitting will give you the correct measurements and all the rules for your area have been met, you can start gluing. Work from the existing drain you are connecting to, outward grading any horizontal pipe at 1/4″ per foot. Note: Once the glue is applied, you have less than 30 seconds to seat the pipe in the fitting, and once it is properly seated, it will become almost impossible to remove after a few seconds. How to apply glue to pipe .
  6. Horizontal plastic pipe needs to be supported with hangers every 4 feet, as a minimum. The cheapest and easiest to use is metal strapping. which can be bought in rolls at any hardware store.
  7. The flange must be mounted so that the slots that will hold the toilet bolts are on the sides of the flange as you face the wall.
  8. When the pipe is in place and the toilet flange is set, the plumbing inspector will want to see your work before its covered over.

Toilet Water Supply Rough in

A standard tank type water closet requires a 1/2″ water line and isolation valve. There are two methods commonly used to bring the water supply to the toilet; in the wall, or up through the floor. The preferred and most aesthetic method is coming out of the wall, under the tank.

The water supply to the toilet should be located as illustrated in the image above, with the following measurements:

  • 6 inches high – measured from the finished floor height
  • 6 inches offset to the left of the flange(as you look at the wall)

When you are roughing in the water supply, ensure you secure the pipe with appropriate fasteners and leave enough pipe sticking out of the wall to be able to cut and install a valve onto the supply (normally done after the rear wall is finished).

These articles may also be helpful:

Install or Replace a Toilet

Flooded Basement Cleanup and Restoration #basement #flooding, #flooding #basement, #flooded #basement, #basement #flooded, #dry #a #flooded #basement


Flooded Basement Cleanup and Restoration

Related Water Services

Too many homeowners have descended their basement steps to find a pool of murky water. Water follows the path of least resistance, finding cracks and holes through basement walls. Flooding can often be attributed to insufficient drainage around basement walls, heavy rains, a faulty sump pump, or a combination of these factors.

Related Water Services

SERVPRO Franchise Professionals are highly trained in water damage restoration including basement and crawlspace flooding. They have the experience, expertise, and equipment to remove the water and dry your basement properly. Their water removal and drying process emphasizes monitoring and documentation to validate your property is dry.

  • 24 Hour Emergency Service
  • Faster to Any Size Disaster
  • Highly Trained Water Damage Restoration Specialists
  • Locally Owned and Operated

Basement Flooding? Call Us Today 1-800-SERVPRO

24 Hour Emergency Water Removal Service

Basements can flood day or night, on weekends and even holidays, and that’s why SERVPRO Franchise Professionals offer 24 emergency service, 365 days a year. You can expect an immediate response time, day or night.

Faster to Any Size Basement Emergency

Immediate action is crucial when dealing with flooded basements. With over 1,700 U.S. and Canadian Franchise locations, SERVPRO is strategically positioned to be faster to any size water emergency.

Highly Trained Water Restoration Specialists

As water damage specialists, SERVPRO Franchise Professionals have the expertise and advanced training that enables them to get your basement dried properly and any affected belongings cleaned and dried. They use scientific drying principles and provide validation and documentation that your property is dry and the job is complete. Learn about water damage training/certificates .

Until Help Arrives

Your primary focus should be safety, be especially careful of electrical and “slip and fall” hazards.

Basement Waterproofing, Crawl Space & Foundation Repair in Portland, Bangor, ME Rochester, NH Wet Basement Contractors, wet basement repair companies.#Wet #basement #repair #companies


Maine s Basement Waterproofing, Crawl Space Encapsulation Foundation Repair Contractor

In Maine, TC Hafford Basement Systems has been performing basement waterproofing and crawl space repair since 1991 and is the exclusive Basement Systems dealer.

We then started doing foundation repair and became the Foundation Supportworks Dealer throughout the state of Maine. We provide sump pump installation, finished and unfinished basement waterproofing, concrete and dirt crawl space solutions.

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Foundation Repair

We’ll find the right solution for your foundation problems.

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Basement Waterproofing

We have the most effective solutions for wet basements.

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Crawl Space Repair

We offer complete crawl space encapsulation repair services.

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Concrete Leveling

Quickly effectively stabilize your sinking, settling concrete!

Why Bangor & Portland Homeowners Choose Us

Complete Customer Satisfaction

Recognized & Awarded Service

Patented & Awarded Products

Written, Transferable Warranties

We offer basement waterproofing and crawl space repair for all water and dampness problems, large or small. Whether you have water coming through your basement walls, floor, doorways or windows, we have a reliable and effective solution. If you just want to remove that musty, moldy smell or completely finish off your basement, we are here to help.

The staff at TC Hafford Basement Systems takes pride in delivering the utmost customer service while solving your waterproofing problems. Our foremen are Certified Waterproofing Professionals with numerous years of experience in basement waterproofing and foundation repair.

Our customers think we’re great

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Hundreds of Satisfied Customers in Maine

We understand that building strong customer satisfaction and relationships are critical in turning satisfied customers into raving fans that provide us with testimonials, references, and referrals. This is why satisfaction and customer service are two of our highest priorities. As a matter of fact, many of our customers are referrals from one of our previously satisfied customers.

We have grown, and continue to grow, as a leader in the basement waterproofing industry offering unsurpassed products, services, warranties, and overall satisfaction. We don t just fix basements, we help people! We service homeowners and businesses in Rochester, Portland, Bangor and areas nearby in Maine and New Hampshire.

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Basement Flood Protection – How to Keep Your Basement From Flooding #how #to #save #basement #from #flooding,how #to #keep #basement #from #flooding,protect #basement #from #water #damage,prevent #basement #from #flood,how #to #save #basements #from #flooding,how #to #keep #basements #from #flooding,protect #basement #from #water #damages,prevent #basement #from #floods


Basement Flood Protection

You�ve already spent thousands of dollars and countless hours converting your concrete dungeon into a comfortable living space.

The last thing you need is a tidal pool of sewage infiltrating your new home office or wet bar.

A simple flash flood or a cresting creek can easily transform your new carpeting into a massive, moldy sponge.

Your finished basement isn�t finished without an emergency plan. You need layers of protection.

Layer One: Emergency Power
Forget the kegerator or LED television. Your sump pump is the most important appliance in your basement. Without it, your basement is as safe as the Titanic in an iceberg field.

A simple 30-minute thunderstorm can quickly destroy weekends worth of sweat equity � unless your sump pump has backup power.

Emergency power comes in three forms:

1. Battery backup sump pumps automatically keep your sump pump running for a few hours during a power outage. Plus, they include a backup sump pump in case your original one malfunctions.

2. Portable generators can power your sump pump for days if necessary. In addition, a 5,000 watt generator can get your refrigerator, furnace fan and other mission critical appliances running.

3. Standby generators give you the best of both worlds — automatic AND long-term protection. Yes, they cost more. But, they also automatically energize the majority of your house, not just one appliance.

Layer Two: Warning Systems
You�re the captain of your own ship. You need good instruments to ensure that your vessel is staying afloat. Even with emergency power, it can�t hurt to be alerted if your ship is sinking.

Sump Pumps Direct carries a complete line of home monitoring devices. ranging from simple sump pump alarms to sophisticated systems that automatically call your cell phone if your basement is flooding.

Layer Three: Flood Insurance

Yes, we sell generators. So why are we promoting flood insurance. Simple. Many of our customers purchase backup power supplies AFTER their basements tank.

We�ve heard plenty of horror stories, including the insurance disasters following Hurricane Irene. Homeowner�s insurance will protect you from wind damage, but not flood damage.

You�ll need a separate flood insurance policy to protect your basement.

How to Fix a Leaky Basement #how #to #fix #wet #basement


How to Fix a Leaky Basement

Keeping your basement dry to prevent problems

Directing water away from your house to prevent leaks

Waterproofing your walls

Maintaining your sump pump

I grew up in Atlanta, where everyone had basements. Personally, I love a house with a basement. My cousins, on the other hand, grew up in Florida where basements are rare in the home. I always felt bad for my cousins until one night we got such a bad rainstorm that we were up all night removing the 5 of water that had puddled up in our basement. This was before wet vacuums existed, so our family became an assembly line of buckets and wet rags. It was then when I realized why my mom said to my aunt that she should be happy she didn t have a basement.

Homes that were built in the 1970s and earlier have minimal waterproofing or sealing. As techniques have gotten better and building codes gotten stricter, we ve ended up with better-built homes that today are energy efficient and deal with the home as an integrated system of proper airflow, insulation, and moisture control. But, for many of us who ve bought a fixer-upper or an older home, leaks or moisture is a problem. My experience has been that the longer this issue isn t addressed, the worse the problem will get down the line.


The most common enemy of a basement is water. Whether your basement suffers from water seeping in through the walls and floors or condensation buildup, it can wreak havoc for a home. Many people associate a basement with a dank, musty odor, and where there is a musty odor there is mold. Mold has become such a problem that there are multimillion dollar businesses popping up to properly tackle and remove mold from a home. I remember a case where a million-dollar home had to be bulldozed because of mold.

Water and condensation can also cause wood to rot. Often, the wood jambs and thresholds are the first to go. Moisture also makes a great environment for termites to have a smorgasbord. So, removing water and moisture from your basement is serious business.

There are a few ways to deal with the moisture or water that gets into your basement. You may want to hire a home inspector to give you his opinion on the matter and the best way to tackle the situation. Waterproofing companies deal with this issue, too. However, some of these companies will push one method when you might need more than that. First, figure out if it is a leak or a moisture problem.

Leaking or Condensation

Water leaking in or condensation? A quick test to determine if you are having a water leak through your wall is to tape a piece of plastic or tin foil to the wall where you suspect water is coming in (see Figure 3.1 ). Make sure you tape down all the sides, and then wait a few days. If beads of moisture have formed on the inside of the foil/plastic and between it and the wall, you have a leak coming through that wall. If there is moisture on the outside of the foil/plastic, your basement is suffering from a moisture problem.

Figure 3.1 Tape a piece of plastic to a wall to check for leaks and moisture.

Condensation is a result of too much moisture in the air. When warm air touches a glass of iced tea in the summer, the cool glass brings down the temperature of the air around it, drawing out the moisture which sits on the outside of the glass. Similarly, when there is too much moisture in your home or basement, the coolness of the walls pulls the moisture out of the air and the water droplets sit on the walls, metal, and other cool surfaces, creating a damp basement.

Condensation Solutions

Many people are not aware that a family s living habits create moisture in the air. This moisture needs to be dealt with by using proper ventilation. (See Chapter 15, Insulation and Ventilation, for more information on ventilating your home.) The following can put moisture into the air: a clothing line, a dryer, cooking, showers, and dew in the air. The following tips will help you keep condensation from becoming a problem:

First, if you are drying clothes on a line in your basement, move them to the outdoors in the warmer months.

If your washer and dryer are in your basement, make sure your dryer is vented properly and the vent is clear of any obstructions or lint build-up. Make sure there are no holes in the vent allowing moist air to leak into your living space. Check for leaks by feeling around the vent when the dryer is on. Every three years, take the vent apart and clean the lint build-up. The vent should be made of a 4 metal pipe and should exit your house close to the dryer. If you notice your clothes are not drying, you might have a clogged vent and should clean it as soon as possible.

Clean your lint tray often and wash it with soapy water and a stiff brush to remove any dryer sheet buildup.

Check your plumbing pipes and make sure there are no leaks coming from sinks or toilets up above.

If you have a shower in the basement, make sure you install a fan and vent it properly.

Check your air conditioner s drain pan and drain line for leaks or clogs. The drain line can become clogged due to algae or debris that will back into the drain pan. It won t take much for the drain pan to fill up and start to spill over. If this happens, you may want to call a professional to service the unit. For central air conditioning units, this drain line will look like it comes out of the furnace.

To check for leaky plumbing, go underneath your sinks and feel around the pipes for moisture. Check directly around the basin and then around the tailpipe and the P-trap. The P-trap is the bend in the pipe that looks like a P. Drain gasses cannot pass the P-trap because it allows for water to settle at the bottom, forming a seal. The P-trap also traps objects such as rings so they don t get washed away. usually! Be sure to regularly check for leaks; it only takes a few moments, and it s better to be safe than sorry. Often, we have no clue there is a loose fitting below the sink until the cabinet has rotted or, worse, it leaks into the basement below.

If condensation is not that big of a problem, you may have an air circulation problem. Sometimes homes are buttoned up so tightly that there isn t proper airflow. If you have central air conditioning, you can install more vents leading into your basement. This is relatively easy and should help a minor moisture problem. You can also use an exhaust fan to help remove moisture and create airflow. Remember, for the basement to have proper airflow, the air must have room to move. If you have a lot of clutter, maybe now is the time to have a yard sale or remove the clutter.

Personally, I would install a dehumidifier. This is a very proactive way to remove moisture. To determine if your basement needs a dehumidifier, see whether you have any of the following conditions:

Condensation on the windows

Musty smells and stuffiness

Wet stains on ceilings or walls

Leaky Basements

The second way a basement gets moisture is through ground water. Most people have water coming in from the walls or floors of their basements. When rainwater runs into your house, this is called hydrostatic. or water pressure. The water can crack a foundation, leading to many ways in which water can penetrate through the walls. This is a bigger problem and one that first needs to be addressed from the outside of the house. How and why is water getting in?

Once you get to know what is going on during a hard rain, you can start to address the problem. Let s start from the top.

Next time it rains, put on your slicker and go outside. Check the gutters to see if they are properly catching rainwater. Then check the downspout to make sure it is diverting the water safely away from the home. Is there water puddling near the house? Does an area need to be built up with soil to alleviate puddling? Is the landscape sloped toward your home, bringing water up against the walls? Is water getting in through a stairwell or window well?

Drying a Wet Basement #basement #waterproofing #richmond #va


Drying a Wet Basement

Most basement water problems can be fixed with simple solutions

Water can get inside your basement through cracks, joints and porous concrete.

Many homeowners think that having a dry basement is impossible. They accept the damp, musty and moldy space below their home because they think there is no other way, or that it’s too expensive to fix.

Basement Systems makes it possible to have a dry basement, and we can help you make the most out of this extra space in your home. We solve all kinds of basement water problems, including those caused by condensation, runoff and subsurface drainage issues.

Basement Systems’ local contractors design and install waterproofing solutions, including drainage systems, sump pumps and dehumidifiers, to help keep the basement dry all the time.

Why you should fix your wet basement

If you use your basement to store valuable items, such as family photos and keepsakes, holiday decorations and tools, water and excess moisture can damage your belongings. If your basement is finished and your family uses it as a space to relax and entertain, high humidity, mold and mildew caused by water damage can negatively affect your health and comfort.

Dry basement solutions from Basement Systems

The TripleSafe sump pump, Sedona dehumidifier and WaterGuard drainage pipe offer the ultimate dry basement solution.

Dry basements are possible if the proper drainage systems and sump pumps are installed. Loose soil around a foundation easily allows water to flow through and seep into a basement through the porous concrete walls and floor, so a reliable system is necessary to keep the water out. A dry basement also requires a trustworthy system to pump the water out of the basement and away from the house.

Basement Systems’ patented WaterGuard drainage system circles the interior perimeter of a basement along the floor to capture any water seeping in. A powerful and reliable sump pump system, such as the TripleSafe sump pump. pumps water out of the house leaving the homeowner with a dry basement. To control excess moisture, a SaniDry dehumidifier should be installed. Water can be directed away from the foundation using our RainChute downspout extension. We also offer solutions for covering those cold, ugly basement walls and floor.

Get a dry basement system designed for your home

Basement Systems’ experienced professional basement waterproofing contractors are trained to tackle any wet basement problem. Your local waterproofing professional will evaluate your home and recommend a dry basement solution that’s right for you. Contact us today to find a Basement Systems dealer in your area and get an estimate on waterproofing and moisture control for your home!

Looking for a price? Get a no cost, no obligation free estimate .

Flood Flaps Flood VentsFlood Insurance for Crawl Spaces and Basements #basement #flood #insurance


Simple Flood Insurance Facts for Crawl Spaces and Basements:

  1. If you are located in a flood plain, you are required to have flood insurance.
  2. If you are in a flood plain, and have a basement or crawl space, you want to protect your basement or crawl space with flood vents.
  3. Flood Flaps flood vents offer a simple, affordable and energy efficient solution to protect your home from the potential destruction of natural disasters resulting in flooding.

No other ICC or FEMA accepted flood vent can prevent air, moisture or insects from entering your basement or crawl space through flood openings in homes and commercial buildings.

Flood insurance policies cover physical damage to your property and possessions when flooding occurs. Flood insurance is protection for basements, crawl spaces, and areas below the lowest elevated floor. Flood insurance coverage is limited in basements and crawl spaces, regardless of zone or date of construction.

Installing Flood Flaps engineered flood vents into your new or existing foundation could reduce your flood insurance premiums. Our FEMA accepted flood vents cover more enclosed area than any competitor s flood vent.

Click here to see how our FEMA accepted flood vents protect your basement or crawl space from flooding.

Flood insurance is also limited in areas below the lowest elevated floor, depending on the flood zone and date of construction. These areas include:

  • Basements
  • Crawl spaces under an elevated building
  • Enclosed areas beneath buildings elevated on full-story foundation walls that are sometimes referred to as walkout basements
  • Enclosed areas under other types of elevated buildings